Unfinished Business: Thurlow Trousers

Months ago I started on the daunting path of sewing a pair of trousers.  Somewhere along the way I lost steam and abandoned the project.  I stuffed my half-sewn pants in the remnant bin, and that is where they lived for months.  Every time I’d pull my bin out, there they were, mocking me.

So finally, last month I’d had enough and pulled them back out onto the sewing table.   And here they are — my finished Thurlows.


I had a hard time fitting this pattern, and I’m not totally satisfied with how they turned out.  But I learned a lot, and feel like at least I know how to sew pants now.
I made my alterations so long ago that I don’t remember them.  Looking back I think I started out with too big of a size (I literally took inches out of these).  There is still a lot of wrinkling in the back.  Oh well, at least they are comfortable.

Another disappointment is that even though I dutifully practiced the welt pocket, and the practice one turned out good, the actual welts didn’t.  They are too wide and spread apart.



Open Mouth Welts – Not Hot!

I am happy with how the fly turned out though.  Fly zippers were really intimidating to me, and that was the point where I quit before.  But not anymore!

I also like my contrast fabric – keeps the insides interesting.


Although I’m not in love with these, I’m relieved they are finished!  And with my newly acquired fly-zip sewing skills, I’m feeling ready to take on my next challenge and copy a pair of my RTW shorts.  Wish me luck!


Welt Pockets Baby!

I’ve been slowly working on my Thurlow trousers.  These pants are full of firsts for me, including welt pockets.  Because I was worried that I might ruin my pants, I decided to do a practice run before sewing the pockets for real.  I’m super excited, my practice pocket turned out so much better than I expected!!

Practice Welt Pocket
Practice Welt Pocket

If you’re looking to sew a welt pocket for the first time, check out Lauren’s excellent tutorial from her Thurlow sew-along.  Now I feel confident and ready to take on my welt pockets!

More Muslin Madness: Thurlow & Peony

I’ve been muddling around working on the muslins and pattern alterations for my Thurlow trousers and Peony dress.  Someday, maybe I’ll have a finished project to share, but until then it’s more muslin madness.

On my Thurlows I was having a problem with the front crotch.  So I took my muslin to class, and my teacher pinned out the excess and showed me how to make the alteration to my pattern.  I ended up shaving off the front inseam by about 3/8″ and took a tiny scoop out of the front crotch curve, as illustrated by the purple line below:


I think they are looking better.

Thurlow Muslin #2

They look like they are tight across the thigh here but that’s because I was playing around with the side seams.

So I took the leap and cut out my fashion fabric!  I’m making up this pair in navy cotton twill, with a white and blue cotton for the lining.  Here’s a peek:

Thurlow Fabric

On my Peony, I knew I’d have some changes to make based on my previous Colette dresses.  But this pattern is kind of a bugger.  My usual alterations haven’t been enough.  So far I’ve lowered the side darts and repositioned the front darts.  I also lowered the neckline a little.  On the back I made bigger neck darts because it was gapping. This is what my flat pattern alterations look like so far:
Peony Alterations

Then I sewed up the muslin, and I’ve got some problems.  There’s a vertical wrinkle running down from my shoulder along the armhole.  And then there are those diagonal lines below the bust.
2012-10-30 20.32.20

If when I get those issues figured out, I’m planning to use this crazy big dot fabric for my dress.  I’m on the fence about whether to ditch the sleeves though.  I think they may be giving more fitting problems than I feel like dealing with right now!
Big Dots

Thurlow Trousers: Muslin Madness

I’m about to pull my hair out trying to work out the fitting issues with my Thurlow trousers.  I just keep ripping and tweaking and ripping and tweaking.  I think I’ve lost all perspective and I can’t even tell if the changes I’m making help or not.  Do you ever do this, just doggedly keep working on a muslin, even though you know it’s time for a break (or bed)?

Ugg. So I’m finally taking a break.  Here’s where I’m at.  Warning, these pics are unflattering and a bit fuzzy.  Pretty much exactly how I feel right now!
I think the front is pretty good, except I’ve got an annoying wrinkle/poof at the bottom of the crotch in the front.
See how the fabric poofs out there? (Ignore the top wrinkle, that’s just a fold from my poor pressing.)
I think maybe the crotch needs shortened.  I tried pinning a tuck across the front, but I get a camel-toe-ish looking thing going on.  So I don’t think that’s the right adjustment.

The back is okay, but I still have a break under the seat that I can’t completely eliminate.  I’ve tried adding to the back inseam, but this is about as good as it gets.

I missed my sewing class for two weeks, due to the Maui vacation.  So I was hoping to be caught up and have my muslin worked out before class meets this week.  Anyone have any thoughts?  Am I just being too picky??

Back to School

Last week I asked for input about whether I should take a pattern drafting class or a sewing class.  The majority, with 62%, said take sewing.

Over the weekend, I convinced myself that I could squeeze in both.  Then I went back to work this week and realized that I was overcommitting myself, and that I couldn’t feasibly make it work with my schedule.  So I settled on . . . . the sewing class!

As I mentioned, we will be making trousers this semester.  I’m super excited.  These are going to be my first pants.  I have two potential patterns, but I think I’m going to go with the Thurlows.

Trouser Class

I will update the blog with my progress as I sew these up.  There’s nothing much to share yet.  We got measured last night, and now I need to trace my pattern and cut it out.

Thank you all for your input, your votes and comments really helped.  🙂