Completed: Simplicity 2444/McCall6833 Mashup

Ever have a pattern that you like part of, but not the whole thing?  That’s the story of this dress.

Bubbles dress

A few months ago I decided to sew McCall 6833.  But after three failed muslins, I gave up on the bodice.  It just wasn’t working for me.

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However, I liked the skirt.  I also noticed that in addition to the pleated skirt you see on the envelope, the pattern came with pieces for a 1/4 circle skirt lining that looked promising to use on its own.  And so I filed it away in the “to use later” pile and moved on.

I recently came back to the pattern and decided to give it a try with the bodice of Simplicity 2444, which is one of my favorites.  I used the M6833 skirt lining pieces, and I think it worked out really well.  I get the ‘fit and flair’ silhouette that I like, but the skirt is not overly full, and doesn’t blow up in the wind.

bubbles dress

Luckily I didn’t have to make any adjustments to make the skirt piece fit the bodice, the patterns matched up well.  I did lengthen the skirt by a few inches.  Because it was a lining pattern, it was pretty short as drafted.

bubbles dress

The fabric is stretch cotton sateen that I bought from Mood Fabrics in L.A.  I think I’ve said it before, but this is one of my favorite types of fabrics to sew and wear.  I like the body it gives this skirt. I tried to take care with the pattern placement over the front bodice, and I think the back matching looks pretty good.

bubbles dress

Here are some flat shots.

bubbles dress

The bodice darts get lost in the pattern, but they are there.

bubbles dress

bubbles dress

bubbles dress

~The armholes are finished with bias tape, and top stitched down.~

bubbles dress

~I did a small rolled hem so I didn’t have to hand stitch, or struggle to ease in a deeper hem.~

On the last night I was sewing this dress, the power to my house was scheduled to be shut off because the utility company was doing some line work.  I really wanted to wear the dress to work the next day, so it was a race against the clock to finish. I got it done just in time.  But wow, I don’t really like sewing under pressure. It was nice to know I can sew faster, but I think I’ll stick to my usual slow pace. 🙂

bubbles dress

Completed: Simplicity 1541and McCall 6988

Over the holidays, we met up with my sister for a ski trip.  I also brought along my sewing machine, a handful of patterns, and some muslin so I could work on fitting a few things to her. Since I mostly sew only for myself, it was a good challenge to try fitting someone else.

When I got home, I set to work on a couple of the final garments. First I sewed this skirt:
Simplicity 0503

It’s Simplicity 1541. It’s one of the AmazingFit patterns, and I like that includes options for ‘slim/average’ and ‘curvy.’
Simplicity 0503
Simplicity 0503

The front has princess seams and the back is darted. I sewed the ‘curvy’ version, so the back has two darts.  This one fit really well out of the envelope.  The only change I made was to taper the side seams a little bit below the hip level.
Simplicity 0503

The fabric is a medium weight cotton that I purchased from Michael Levine a while back. (I’ve also made myself a dress out of this, and will blog that soon.)  It’s lined with cream Bemberg rayon.

Simplicity 0503

I followed the zipper/lining method from this free Craftsy course.  It worked perfectly and the zipper and lining was sewn completely by machine.
Simplicity 0503

Next I sewed this dress:

McCall 6988

Please ignore the tight fit on my dress form.  It will fit her with more ease than shown here.  I just didn’t bother adjusting my form down to her measurements.

McCall 6988

The pattern is McCall 6988. This pattern has multiple cup sizes, which was helpful.

McCall 6988

I modified the pattern by raising the armholes slightly, reducing the sleeve cap ease, and sewing the sleeves in flat.  I also lengthened the sleeves, per my sister’s preference.
McCall 6988

And I redrafted the facings. As drafted, the facing goes down around the armholes, but I found that added too much bulk. So I went with a neck facing only.
McCall 6988
McCall 6988

The main fabric is a ponte that I ordered online somewhere (I think FabricMart), and I got the lace from Metro Textile when I was in NYC. I purchased these months apart, and just got lucky that they matched so well!

McCall 6988

It was my sister’s idea to add lace to the yoke. I love how it turned out, and want to make one for myself.

McCall 6988

Long distance sewing is a little stressful because there’s not a chance to fit as you sew the final garment.  These are off in the mail now, and hopefully everything works out!

Tribute August: McCall 2401

For Tribute August, I wanted to create a dress inspired by one of my favorite bloggers, Carolyn from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic.  I love the beautiful garments she creates for herself, and in particular her lovely, work appropriate sheath dresses. A sheath dress has been on my sewing list for a long time.  So I finally made one.
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The pattern I used is McCall 2401.

McCall 2401

The pattern envelope is pretty uninspiring, but I think this pattern is really versatile and will work with a lot of different fabrics.  (Hopefully one day this will become a TNT.)

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Although I made a muslin, I still have some fit issues with the shoulder/sleeve area to work out for next time.  There’s a wrinkle of extra fabric running from the shoulder to the bust.  (I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, but I don’t think it was big enough.)

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And the sleeves wrinkle at the back.  I think I just need to rotate the sleeve in the armhole to fix this.
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For this dress, I’ll just toss on a cardigan, and ignore the problems.  🙂
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The fabric is a linen/rayon blend I got from The Fabric Store in LA.  It doesn’t come through in the pics very well, but the fabric has a slight sheen to it that is really pretty.
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I underlined the entire dress with light cotton.  I was hoping this would help with the wrinkle factor.  I think silk organza would have been a better choice, but I find organza terribly itchy.  So I went with the cotton.  The dress is very comfortable, even if the hem is annoyingly wrinkly.

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Here’s a few flat/inside shots.

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Hand picked lapped zipper.

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Facings finished with Bemberg bias strips.

This dress will also be my last official summer garment.  Even though the weather is still warm here, I’m ready for fall and fall sewing!
LWD