Jacket Tailoring – Welt Pockets

This week in tailoring class we covered welt pockets.  I did a test run with some scraps of my wool.  It turned out pretty good, I think.  The biggest problem I had was seeing my stitching.  The black thread really gets lost in this black crepe.

Practice Welt

Practice Welt

A little peek of my purple lining!

Oh, and here’s a preview of my latest dress project.  So close to being done!!!
Almost Done!


Jacket Tailoring – Pad Stitching

This week’s tailoring homework is pad stitching.  I thought this would be difficult.  As it turns out, it’s not so bad.  Here I’m pad stitching the shoulder reinforcement to the hair canvas. All of this will be inside the front of the jacket (to give it structure), and won’t be seen.
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I must say hand stitching with 100% silk thread is dreamy!

Jacket Tailoring

Two of my goals for this year were to take another sewing class and to make a jacket. Well, I found a way to  knock out both at the same time!  I’m taking a class on how to sew a tailored jacket.  I’m really excited for this one because reading about hair canvas and pad stitching and roll lines makes my eyes glaze over a bit.  I feel like I need a little hand-holding to learn this stuff.
Tailoring class

For this class, the teacher didn’t want to get bogged down trying to fit 30 different patterns, so she provided the pattern for class.  It’s a fairly classic men’s style jacket, with a notched collar, double welt pockets, and a full lining.  Check out this mess of pattern pieces!

Since we don’t have time this semester to spend weeks in muslin madness, we were instructed to trace our closest size, make a few alterations and get sewing!  Our teacher had pre-made muslins of the three available sizes, and we tried them on in class and pinned them out to determine what changes to make to the pattern.  I think it was a pretty efficient way to get through fitting.  My jacket probably won’t fit perfectly.  But that’s okay.  The goal here is to learn the techniques.  I can drive myself mad with fitting another day.  🙂

That being said, I did make a muslin of my own, to test some of my flat pattern changes.  I think it’s good enough.

This weekend I’m planning to cut into my wool fabric.  I’m excited, this will be my first time sewing with wool!

Also, I want to say thank you for the kind and supportive comments on my last post about Abby.  They really meant a lot to me.  I’m doing better and am getting back to my normal routine.  Hopefully you will see some more sewing soon!

Completed: Vacation Skirts

Tonight was my trouser sewing class.  We were set to work on tissue fitting our patterns.  It would have been a whole lot more helpful if I had remembered to bring my pattern peices!  I was in a rush this morning and shot out the door without them.  So unfortunately I don’t have any insights to share on the trouser front.  😦

But I do have a couple more finished projects!  Mr. B and I are going to Hawaii for vacation next week.  So I wanted to make some quick, comfy skirts for the trip.  I was thinking lightweight, zipper-free, and something that can easily get tossed over a swimsuit.  Here’s the first one:
It’s just a really simple elastic waistband skirt.  I didn’t use a pattern, I just cut two pieces of fabric that were 1.5 times my waist measurement, by the length I wanted, plus 2 1/2 inches for the waistband and hem.  There are lots of tutorials online for elastic waistband skirts.  I found these two helpful: Elastic Waist Skirt Tutorial – Mama Edition and How to Make an Elastic Waistband Skirt

After I had the elastic in place, I sewed two lines of stitching through the casing and the elastic to prevent it from rolling or folding over.  I got the idea from my gym shorts!  I stretched the elastic as I sewed over it, so that the waistband would stay nice and stretchy and fit over my hips.  Pulling the elastic and sewing was a little tricky at first, and my stitching isn’t exactly even, but I’m not getting hung up on it.
skirt waistband

When the skirt was done, I felt it looked a little too plain.  So I added a some embroidery to one corner.  The design came from the Hoop Love Vintage Transfers group on Flickr.

skirt embroidery
skirt embroidery

The second skirt is actually a refashion.  I had this dress/coverup thing that I never wore because the top didn’t fit right, and it was super short on me.


So I hacked off the bodice . . .

and then sewed a piece of 2 inch wide flat elastic to the skirt.

I love the result.  The skirt is really comfy, was a super easy to do, and I know I’ll get a lot more use out of it now.
This was also my first refashion.  I see more of these in my future!

Back to School

Last week I asked for input about whether I should take a pattern drafting class or a sewing class.  The majority, with 62%, said take sewing.

Over the weekend, I convinced myself that I could squeeze in both.  Then I went back to work this week and realized that I was overcommitting myself, and that I couldn’t feasibly make it work with my schedule.  So I settled on . . . . the sewing class!

As I mentioned, we will be making trousers this semester.  I’m super excited.  These are going to be my first pants.  I have two potential patterns, but I think I’m going to go with the Thurlows.

Trouser Class

I will update the blog with my progress as I sew these up.  There’s nothing much to share yet.  We got measured last night, and now I need to trace my pattern and cut it out.

Thank you all for your input, your votes and comments really helped.  🙂