Completed: Licorice Dress With a Wild Side

I’ve had this great animal print rayon challis sitting in my closet for a while.  I really wanted to sew it up before the summer ends.  So I reached for a familiar pattern, and made another version of the Licorice Dress from the Colette Sewing Handbook.  (Version one here and version two here.)
Licorice Dress

I really like how this one turned out.  I’m not really sure what type of animal print this is.  It kind of looks like feathers or brush strokes up close, and not spots.  But the fabric is great.  Light and dreamy.  It’s like wearing pajamas in disguise.  🙂
Licorice Dress
Licorice Dress

I tweaked the pattern a little.  I lengthened it by about 2″ and drafted cap sleeves.  The sleeves were a total experiment, and I’m pretty happy with how they turned out.
Wild Side of Licorice

I also moved the zipper to the side.  I did this because I didn’t want to bother with matching the print in the back.  So I folded the seam allowance away and planned to cut the back piece on the fold.  But when I was cutting out, I forgot my plan, and cut two pieces instead!  Oops.  Because I had eliminated the seam allowance, I had to sew the back seam with a tiny seam allowance, but it worked. Luckily the pattern matched up okay.
Licorice Dress

Here it is flat:
Licorice Back

Speaking of the zipper….I put in an invisible one.  Look how much better it turned out than my last one:
Licorice Invisible Zipper

Virtually invisible and not wonky!!  🙂  I think I got a nicer result because I added light interfacing to the seam allowance and really took my time sewing it.

I drafted facings to give the neck and armholes a little more stability.  The dress is also fully lined with Bemberg rayon.  Here’s the inside front:
Licorice Inside Front

And back:
Licorice Inside Back

Close up of the facing/cap sleeves:
Licorice Inside Facing

Finally, check this out … I just barely had enough thread!

Just Enough!

I almost bought two spools.  Glad I didn’t.  But that was cutting it a little close.  If I’d had to rip out any seams, I think I’d have been short.  But that’s the beauty of sewing repeats.  Most of the issues are already worked out and things usually go quicker and easier.  🙂





11 thoughts on “Completed: Licorice Dress With a Wild Side

  1. Love the new dress and your invisible zipper installation was flawless. I am still struggling with that technique but so love an invisible zipper. P.S. I didn’t think the other invisible zipper looked that bad either. I love that you added facings on the dress, doing so can sometime make a huge difference.

  2. So very pretty! It’s such a good idea to reuse a pattern. I hope to do it a lot… when I get one that fits decently lol.
    So curious as to how you drafted the cap sleeves!
    Lovely finishing touches as always 🙂

  3. Pingback: Completed: Spotty Licorice Dress | Purls and Pleats

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