My Hawthorn dress is coming along nicely. Tonight I spent some time working on the collar and facing. I ran across an issue with the collar, that I know other people have had to. If you sew it according to the pattern instructions, it comes up short.
Here’s what I mean. If you sew it up as directed, the ends of the collar don’t quite reach the dots. (I double checked that I had marked my bodice pieces correctly, and cut out the right pattern pieces.)
Ideally, the end of the collar should align with the corner of the bodice, as indicated by the pencil. Look closely at the samples on Colette’s website, particularly the close up of the white dress, and you see where it should end.
So how to fix this? It’s simple. When you sew the interfaced and un-interfaced pieces of the collar together, sew the short sides with a 1/4″ seam allowance, instead of a 5/8″ seam allowance. If you do, everything matches up!
Specifically, sew the short sides (in orange) with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Sew the long side (in yellow) with a 5/8″ seam allowance. Then trim the long edge down to 1/4″ and follow the rest of the instructions.
Oh and a quick tip I learned in tailoring class — when sewing the two collar pieces together, sew with the interfaced piece facing up towards you. The stretchier fabric (the un-interfaced piece) should be on the bottom touching the feed dogs. I don’t fully understand the mechanics of this, but it does seem to work and the two pieces stay together better. 🙂
Now on to the tutorial….
You need to finish the outside edge of the facing unit. I thought about serging mine, but I like pretty insides. So, I did a Hong Kong finish instead. If you want to try this too, do it before you sew the facing onto the dress! [EDIT: You might want to wait to finish the facing until after you sew it to the dress and the skirt to the bodice are sewn together. See my comments in Part Two of this Tutorial.]
I made my own bias tape out of some light weight cotton lawn. I suppose you could use store bought bias tape, but that stuff is thick and stiff, so I don’t recommend it.