Completed: Sewaholic Robson Coat

I made a coat!  I can’t believe it, I made a coat!!  Here’s my version of the new Robson Coat pattern from Sewaholic Patterns.
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Can you tell I’m excited about this project?!  And guess what . . . it wasn’t all that hard!  Tasia has drafted a fantastic pattern.  It has a lot of pieces, and I won’t lie, making this was time consuming.  But honestly, it was pretty easy.  Especially considering – it’s a coat!

The fabric I used is a 100% cotton twill.  So it will wrinkle, but I decided I can live with that.
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It isn’t lined, so you use bias tape to finish all the seams.
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And there are A LOT of seams, so you need a ton of bias tape!  I made my own with a gray, black and white animal print fabric.  It took a whole night of work to make enough, but the extra effort was worth it.  I just love how the animal print contrasts with the green fabric.  Here’s a closer look:
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Tip:  I didn’t sew the bias tape the way the pattern instructions suggest.  (Which is to fold it over the seam allowance and sew)  Instead, I did what Lauren (Lladybird) did.  (check out her post – she’s got pics of this, and a fanstastic coat to boot!)  I sewed one side of the bias tape, then turned it over the seam allowance and top stitched it down.  It’s an extra step, but it’s actually a lot easier than trying to wrangle and sew the bias tape around a bulky seam allowance in one pass.

This coat is loaded with great details.  It’s got front storm flaps, with a button hidden underneath for when you want to close the coat all the way to the neck.
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A back storm flap, with a button.  I sewed the animal print fabric on the underside of my flap, just for fun!
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Epaulettes:
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Sleeve Tabs:
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Pocket welts:
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Belt loops and tie belt:
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Here’s how the insides look.  Front:
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Back:
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I cut the back neck facing from my animal print fabric, for a bit of contrast.
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I also slip-stitched the back facing down, so that it wouldn’t flip up or flop around when I take the coat off.  (Bonus, the back storm flap hides the stitches!)
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The sleeves were a little tricky for me, mostly due to inexperience.  (I think I’ve only done set in sleeves once, or twice.)  I started out by pinning the sleeves in and sewing, but kept getting puckers.  So I switched to basting them in my hand, and that worked a lot better for me.  They are sitting pretty smoothly now.
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And I’m jazzed about how well the top stitching on the sleeve lines up with the stitching on the back flap.
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Speaking of top stitching, this coat is loaded with it.  I was intimidated by this a first, because I’d only done it a couple times before.  Turns out, it wasn’t so hard.  Another TIP:  don’t look at the needle as you top stitch, and the stitches will stay straighter.  I have no idea why, but as soon as I’d look at the needle, things went off course!  Along those lines, buy extra thread if you make this.  You will need it.  (I used 2.5 of the small spools of Gutermann thread.  Or about 250 meters/275 yards.)

Oh the other thing about this coat . . . I didn’t make a muslin, and I think it fits pretty darn well.
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The only alteration I made was to shorten it by about 4 inches.  I based my length off of another trench style coat I own.

When I make this again (and I totally want to, even if owning multiple trench coats is ridiculous) I will probably make the front flaps a smidge narrower.  They have a tendency to want to poof out.  I’d also take just a bit of flair out of the sides, along the princess seams.

Other changes I’d make are (1) cut the interfacing so that it doesn’t extend into the seam allowances around the collar.  I think this would help reduce bulk.  It’s another tip I’ve learned from my tailoring class, and (2) maybe underline the sleeves with lining fabric, to help the coat glide on and off easier.

All said and done, I am really proud of myself for making this coat.  A year ago I would have never imagined I could made outerwear!  I like how it fits.  I love the fabric and bias tape.  And it fills a gap in my wardrobe, I needed a lightweight coat for cool spring mornings/evenings.  Yes, I love my Robson Coat!
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Go make one . . . you won’t regret it!

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38 thoughts on “Completed: Sewaholic Robson Coat

  1. So beautiful! I really love your contrast fabric against the green. I bought this pattern with the intention of making it next fall, since I’ve already made 2 coats for this spring. But I’m so tempted to go ahead with it!

  2. well done! it’s gorgeous. I was totally thinking of doing one in a cotton twill as it doesn’t get that cold in Sydney. I haven’t seen one not lined yet, it looks great. I think I’ll order it. Thanks for the inspiration.

    • I think unlined cotton twill is perfect for a mild-climate coat, it’s just warm enough to take the chill off, but not too warm. I’ll probably wear this instead of throwing on a hoodie, when I want to be a little classier.

  3. Ohhh, it turned out great! I love that rich green paired with the animal print… and all the little animal print details. Of course, now you’re totally making me second-guess my buttons… I went with the 3/4″ but I really like the way the larger ones look! Dangit! Guess I’ll have to make a second coat 😉

    It’s a great pattern, yeah? A totally perfect first coat 🙂

    • Ha ha, good reason to make another coat. 🙂 Yes, amazing pattern! I went with big buttons because that’s all the store had enough of. They are 1 1/8″, but I did get some 3/4″ for the sleeve tabs and epaulettes.

  4. I think this is my favourite version of this coat I’ve seen yet! The colour is drop-dead gorgeous, I want one exactly like it! I’ve been humming and hawing about getting this pattern so far. Although I’ve seen lots of lovely versions of this made up, your’s is the first that makes me REALLY want to make this coat, I think it’s the colour and your shortening it that so totally does it for me. Perhaps there may be a Robson trench in my future after all!

  5. Really, really stunning. 😀 I had to come over and check out more pictures. The leopard bias is such a great touch. And, the fabric looks like the perfect weight.

  6. Wow your coat is beautiful, I love the colour and the animal print just sets it off beautifully.
    I think I could make this but it would be so time consuming! However if I ever do make it I would do a hot pink version with black and white polka dot binding and lining.

    • That would be such a cool coat, I hope you do it! The good thing about this pattern is that you can break it up into little chunks of sewing. Each individual step doesn’t take to long to do.

  7. This is so beautiful. I can imagine the kind of work that has gone into making this. I’ve never made a coat before. I’m inspired to try making one now.

  8. beautiful beautiful work! one more very inspiring Robson coat – your topstitching is perfect (I’ll try to remember the trick of not watching the needle) and the inside looks as great as the outside. I’m really eager to start this one, as soon as I’m not pregnant anymore!

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