When I made my recent blue and white Sorbetto top, I altered the pattern by converting the bust darts into neckline pleats. I mentioned I’d do a post showing how I used dart manipulation to do it. And look, I’ve finally gotten around to it! 🙂
Since it’s easier to photograph, I made a miniature version of the pattern to illustrate the steps.**
2. Mark the bust point. Here I marked it in red. (It’s about 1/2 away from the tip of the dart.) This is really important. The trick to successful dart manipulation is to always use the bust point and not the end of the dart (or dart point) when moving darts around.
5. “Cut away the old, and cut on the new.” This is what my pattern making teacher repeated over and over in class. Cut the old dart away first, along the red lines. Then, cut on the new green line, but stop just shy of the bust point so you have a hinge.
8. Now you have opened a space at the neckline for the pleats. (This could also be made into a new dart, or even gathers.) Here, I wanted to have two pleats, so I drew another green line. (I also could have done this at step 4.)
Here’s a picture of what my actual pattern looked like before and after.
**Disclaimer: I really have no idea what I am doing. My experience and knowledge of pattern drafting is fairly limited. But this did work for me. Remember, whenever in doubt, make a muslin to test out any pattern changes. 🙂