More Muslin Madness: Thurlow & Peony

I’ve been muddling around working on the muslins and pattern alterations for my Thurlow trousers and Peony dress.  Someday, maybe I’ll have a finished project to share, but until then it’s more muslin madness.

On my Thurlows I was having a problem with the front crotch.  So I took my muslin to class, and my teacher pinned out the excess and showed me how to make the alteration to my pattern.  I ended up shaving off the front inseam by about 3/8″ and took a tiny scoop out of the front crotch curve, as illustrated by the purple line below:


I think they are looking better.

Thurlow Muslin #2

They look like they are tight across the thigh here but that’s because I was playing around with the side seams.

So I took the leap and cut out my fashion fabric!  I’m making up this pair in navy cotton twill, with a white and blue cotton for the lining.  Here’s a peek:

Thurlow Fabric

On my Peony, I knew I’d have some changes to make based on my previous Colette dresses.  But this pattern is kind of a bugger.  My usual alterations haven’t been enough.  So far I’ve lowered the side darts and repositioned the front darts.  I also lowered the neckline a little.  On the back I made bigger neck darts because it was gapping. This is what my flat pattern alterations look like so far:
Peony Alterations

Then I sewed up the muslin, and I’ve got some problems.  There’s a vertical wrinkle running down from my shoulder along the armhole.  And then there are those diagonal lines below the bust.
2012-10-30 20.32.20

If when I get those issues figured out, I’m planning to use this crazy big dot fabric for my dress.  I’m on the fence about whether to ditch the sleeves though.  I think they may be giving more fitting problems than I feel like dealing with right now!
Big Dots


16 thoughts on “More Muslin Madness: Thurlow & Peony

  1. Hi Marie, your Thurlow toile is looking good. I went to my first sewing class on the weekend and with the help of the teacher had the Peony fitted. I had already attempted 3 toiles with no joy. The teacher made a bunch of alterations. I’ll post the alterations here later. Maybe they could be of use to you, as we are about the same size. Cheers Catherine

  2. We are working on the same patterns 🙂

    My Peony has been a nightmare. I made SIX muslins and got to the point where I said, “enough is enough” and decided that I can’t obsess anymore. I cut out my final fabric. We’ll see how it goes…

  3. Well done, your pants are looking awesome. Everyone seems to have major problems with Peony… I am going to avoid it lol. Good luck fixing it- and I agree, maybe your shoulders are too narrow for the pattern?

  4. Pingback: Completed: Colette Truffle #3 | Purls and Pleats

  5. Pingback: Completed: Colette Peony Dress | Purls and Pleats

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