Sew Colette 2.0 – Hazel Dress

Meet Hazel.

I finally finished this dress last night.  I’m a little behind the Sew Colette schedule, but better late, than never, right?!

The fabric is a light/medium weight cotton twill that I found on the discount table.  I wasn’t sure about it at first, but as I’ve worked on this dress, it’s really grown on me.

Hazel Back

As for the pattern, I made a few alterations to the bodice, and changed the skirt a little.  Here’s the run-down.

My muslin was a little loose, so I went down a size.  Then I moved the darts down.  (On me, Colette darts always ride too high on my bust.)  And I shaved a little bit off of the curved edge of the B pieces, to make the bust smaller.  I also added about 5/8 inch to the top of piece A, to give me a little more coverage.  When I made my muslin, I thought I’d lower the waistline, but decided against it in the end.

I’m happy with the fit across my bust, but the waist is too big.  The dress kind of sticks out away from my body right under the waist seam.  On my next version, I will have to take it in there.

For the skirt, I wasn’t digging the straight drindle style on me.  So I decided to add a little more flare at the bottom.  I did this by slashing and spreading the pattern pieces.

All I did was slash from the bottom of the skirt to the seam line – but not through it.


Stop right where the scissors are pointing.

And I made a tiny cut down from the top edge to the seam line – to make a hinge.

Then I spread the pieces and taped some paper in the gaps.  Here’s a comparison of the before and after pieces:

Hazel Skirt Before


Hazel Skirt After


When I first sewed this together, I felt like the gathered skirt looked kinda dumpy on me.  So I pulled out the gathering and did pleats instead.

I also added piping to the top of the bodice and the waist.  This was my first time putting in piping, and it was really easy.  I was able to just use my zipper foot.


The piping at the waist lines up – yay!

Finally, I added another tagless garment label – my new favorite little detail!

I didn’t line this one.  Here’s how the insides look:

Despite my issue with the way the waist fits, I like this dress.  It’s really comfortable.  And I adore the pockets!!  I will definitely be making another Hazel!



14 thoughts on “Sew Colette 2.0 – Hazel Dress

  1. That is adorable! I think the piping and all the little changes you made to the bodice helped make it less block-y and really flattering on your shape. I also really love the way the dark zigzag lines up to make a curve at the front waist. Have you worn it out and about yet?

    • Thank you! I got lucky on lining up the zigzags, it wasn’t really all that intentional! Yes, yesterday I wore it to work (with a sweater) and then a birthday party. It was perfect and didn’t even wrinkle. The pics were taken after I got home.

  2. Nnnnooooooo!!! I just cut out my second version of the hazel and I was thinking of adding width to the hem, but I never did and this post reminded me of that! I will definitely keep this post in mind if I make a third hazel, though!

  3. 1. LOVE it!
    2. The piping looks so good!
    3. Don’t fee bad about posting late! I still haven’t posted mine!

  4. Pingback: Hazel Round Two | Purls and Pleats

  5. Pingback: Me Made May – Final Wrap Up | Purls and Pleats

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