Licorice Muslin

I started on my muslin for the last project for Sew ColetteThe Licorice Dress.  I am super sad that this is the last project for the sew along.  I’ve learned so much in just five months and have really enjoyed sewing along with everyone.  I think I’ve delayed working on this dress because it means the fun is almost over.  😦

Anyway, enough sadness, and on to the sewing!

Based on the finished garment measurements, I decided to cut a size 0 in the top and grade out to a 2 at the hip.  I sewed up my first muslin without making any alterations, except to lower the bust darts.  The fit was okay, except it was too baggy in the bust.

Licorice Muslin #1

Muslin #1.

Time for a SBA.  I didn’t want to do the slash and pivot method I used when I altered my Pastille.  (That took me 5 bodice muslins, and the fit still isn’t all that hot.)  So this time I tried out the “pivot and slide” method in Nancy Zieman’s book Pattern Fitting With Confidence.  This is a good book, and I would recommend it if you want to try a different method of alterations.
With Confidence!

I won’t go into the specifics this time, but basically this method has you retrace your pattern piece while you slide the original pattern up, down, left and right, and anchor the pattern with a pin and swing it back and forth.  It’s sounds confusing, I know.  But the book has straight forward instructions, and lots of pictures.  The bottom line, there is no cutting or taping – and I like that.

In all honesty I wasn’t confident that these little pivot and slides were going to make a very big difference in the fit of my dress.  I mean really, when I compare the two pattern pieces they are not all that different.

Licorice Pattern Alterations

The bottom piece is the original, the top the altered pattern.

But I decided to trust Nancy and just follow the directions.  I sewed up my second muslin.  Better!  So the pivot and slide does work – cool beans.  And it’s pretty easy too!

Licorice Muslin #2

Muslin #2.

My other alterations included taking a 1/4 horizontal tuck out of the back bodice.  And I fiddled with the placement of the front darts.  I felt like they were too close together below my waist.  So I redrew them so they angle out towards my hips a little bit.

Here’s a comparison of muslin #1 and #2:

Licorice Muslin #1

#1 Baggy 😦

Licorice Muslin #2

#2 Better 🙂

I’m making my Licorice sleeveless and collarless, so I’m ready to move onto cutting my garment fabric:
Licorice Fabric

Can you tell that I was highly influenced by the polka dot dress in the book?  I’m such a sucker for dots.


4 thoughts on “Licorice Muslin

  1. Oh my goodness, a polka dot licorice??? Can’t wait to see it! And well done, well done on the fitting! It drives me nuts! And I never know how to tell how much to take out for the SBA. Any insights?
    Your 2nd muslin looks way better!

    • Thanks! The Zieman book had a table that helped me figure out how much to remove. In a nutshell, I compared my bust measurement to the pattern measurement at the bust line, and took into account some design ease. I ended up needing to remove 1.5 inches total, so I took 3/4 inch from the side seam. I feel like I’m not very good at explaining it, sorry 😦
      I’ve also read that you pinch out the excess fabric, and then measure that to determine how much to remove from the pattern. It sure seems like there is more info out there about the FBA than the SBA. About half my sewing books don’t even discuss the SBA.

  2. I started on my Licorice today too, so am not sure whether ill finish on time. I agree, ill miss the sewalong too……like you i was going to do the dress sleeveless and collarless, then at the last minute attached a collar in coordinating colour and it has a real vintage feel now. Looking forward to seeing your finished dress. Cheers, Catherine

    • I hope to finish tomorrow, but that might not be realistic. 🙂 I bet it will be cute with the collar. Depending on how this one turns out, I might have to make another version with a collar.

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