I started on my muslin for the last project for Sew Colette – The Licorice Dress. I am super sad that this is the last project for the sew along. I’ve learned so much in just five months and have really enjoyed sewing along with everyone. I think I’ve delayed working on this dress because it means the fun is almost over. 😦
Anyway, enough sadness, and on to the sewing!
Based on the finished garment measurements, I decided to cut a size 0 in the top and grade out to a 2 at the hip. I sewed up my first muslin without making any alterations, except to lower the bust darts. The fit was okay, except it was too baggy in the bust.
Time for a SBA. I didn’t want to do the slash and pivot method I used when I altered my Pastille. (That took me 5 bodice muslins, and the fit still isn’t all that hot.) So this time I tried out the “pivot and slide” method in Nancy Zieman’s book Pattern Fitting With Confidence. This is a good book, and I would recommend it if you want to try a different method of alterations.
I won’t go into the specifics this time, but basically this method has you retrace your pattern piece while you slide the original pattern up, down, left and right, and anchor the pattern with a pin and swing it back and forth. It’s sounds confusing, I know. But the book has straight forward instructions, and lots of pictures. The bottom line, there is no cutting or taping – and I like that.
In all honesty I wasn’t confident that these little pivot and slides were going to make a very big difference in the fit of my dress. I mean really, when I compare the two pattern pieces they are not all that different.
But I decided to trust Nancy and just follow the directions. I sewed up my second muslin. Better! So the pivot and slide does work – cool beans. And it’s pretty easy too!
My other alterations included taking a 1/4 horizontal tuck out of the back bodice. And I fiddled with the placement of the front darts. I felt like they were too close together below my waist. So I redrew them so they angle out towards my hips a little bit.
Here’s a comparison of muslin #1 and #2:
Can you tell that I was highly influenced by the polka dot dress in the book? I’m such a sucker for dots.