I also learned a ton making it because I tried so many new things in the process.
The muslin was quick and painless. Getting a good fit on this dress was so much easier than with Pastille. I lowered the darts, and shaved off about 5/8 inch off the shoulder seams (although I should have taken a bit more). I also lengthened the back darts, because I had a puff of fabric around my shoulders.
My fabric had a lot of drape, but I wanted my dress to have more structure. So I decided to underline it. This was a first for me. To learn how to do it, I followed Gertie’s tutorial and also incorporated some info from a couple of my mom’s old sewing books.
In addition to the underlining, I decided to line this dress. I used Bemberg rayon again (I just love this stuff). I tried a new technique for cutting this slippery fabric. I used my knitting blocking mats and pinned the fabric and pattern to the mats.
Then I traced around the pattern, and cut out the pieces.
It worked pretty good for me, and I will probably do this again in the future. The only caution — the foam mats will dull your pins.
After I cut out the fabric, I realized just how fray-prone it was. I was worried that I would put all this time and effort into this dress only to have it would fall apart when I washed it. So I put sewing on hold, and did the only reasonable thing I could think of. I bought a serger. This is reasonable, no?
Yay serged seams!!
After installing the lining, I wanted to understitch the neckline and armholes to keep the lining from rolling outwards. But because of the way I installed the lining, I couldn’t get all of the seam allowance under my sewing machine. So it was time for another first…pickstitching. I suck at hand sewing, so I was happy that my stitches turned out fairly even.
I knew I would want to wear a belt with this dress, so I made some thread loops and sewed them into the side seams. Another first for me. 🙂
Finally, since this dress was full of so many firsts, I decided it was also time to try hemming by hand. I used hem tape and then catch stitched it to the underlining fabric. My stitches are not so even, oh well. 🙂
I am really happy with this dress. It’s my favorite thing I’ve sewn yet. I definitely see some more Truffles in my future.