Whew, I finished my latest dress just in time for the Summer Spark Sew Along. I was so happy with my first Licorice dress, that decided to make another version. But this one gave me some troubles.
Actually, I almost gave up on this dress. I chose a very lightweight cotton/nylon blend fabric, that has the slightest stretch. I thought it would make a nice cool summer dress that would still be work appropriate. But this stuff was a nightmare! It wrinkles. It puckers. It frayes. It slips. It melts. Did I mention it wrinkles? Seriously, it’s so bad that I feel like I won’t want to wear it much. Oh well. It’s done.
My first problem was the invisible zipper. I had a really bad bump at the bottom of the zipper. To get around it, I ended up hand sewing the seam below the zipper for about 1 1/2 inches. It’s better, but not great. You can still see it. :( My invisible zippers are never as nice as I want them, I think the next time I put one in I’m going to try a new technique. 
The next problem was the length of the dress. For some reason this dress turned out too short. I have no idea how it happened, I used the same pattern pieces as my last Licorice. Not that I am against short, but I wanted to wear this to work. So I added an extra band of fabric at the bottom. Maybe it looks weird? I haven’t decided yet. For now, I’m calling it a “design detail.”
Okay, enough about the problems. Here’s what I LIKE about the dress – the lining! Of course, it’s Bemberg Rayon again, in this most luscious purple! Maybe I should wear the dress inside out – ha!
I understitched the neckline and armholes by hand.

And there’s my tagless garment label!!
Finally, I made a matching belt. But I didn’t feel like following the pattern directions, because I don’t like trying to turn a skinny tube of fabric. Instead I folded each side over about 1/4 inch and then folded the belt in half and stitched down all four sides.
In the end, I still love this pattern, even though my fabric choice let me down. And if I can get past its flaws, I know I will be cool and comfy wearing this dress throughout the summer.








I think the band you added to the bottom is actually a really pretty detail! Sorry to hear your fabric was such a pain to work with. That would drive me nuts!!
In the end you got a really sweet garment out of it!
Thanks! Ya, I almost gave up on the fabric. At one point I thought about taking the dress apart and re-using the lining with a new main fabric. Then I decided that was too much work! I think this will be okay, and I’ll be wearing a sweater over it at work anyway, so some of the imperfections that bug me will be covered up.
Looks very nice despite your problems
I like the band you added at the bottom too – makes it different from your other version. Plus that libing is amazing! And I know how you feel about invisible zippers – mine never turn out particularly great either.
Looks georgous. I love the hem detail – I was looking at the first photo wondering how you managed it.
I get that bump at the bottom with the zippers too! Thought it was just me!
Cool and comfy is good! Very pretty and feminine. Love it.
You always do such beautiful details – the hand understitching, the monogram, the purple Bemburg – It’s a great dress! If the fabric was frustrating, I say give it another try in something different. Like you, I really like the “bones” of the Licorice dress!
Thanks everyone!
The bottom is my favorite part!
Okay, I am convinced, the hem isn’t wierd.
I think it’s adorable and I love the color!
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