When I made my sister’s Robson Trench Coat, I decided to line the sleeves. I did this so the coat would slide on and off a little easier. It worked really well, and I recommend it for this pattern.
A couple notes on this tutorial. First, this may not technically be the “right” way to line a sleeve. It’s simply what made sense to me, and it worked. Second, I apologize for the quality of the pictures. I was snapping these with my phone as I sewing late into the night. Finally, I’m going to refer to the sleeve lining as simply “lining” and the fashion fabric sleeve as “sleeve.”
- Approximately 3/4 – 1 yard of lining fabric. I used Bemberg rayon, which is my favorite lining material. But anything slippery should work.
- You may also want to use wider bias tape to finish the armhole seam. I picked up a package of the “Wide Single Fold” stuff.
1. Cut the lining fabric, using the pattern pieces for the sleeve. BUT – this is important – cut the lining 1″ shorter than the main fabric.
2. Sew the sleeve, as directed by steps 21 and 22 in the pattern, EXCEPT don’t finish the seams or the sleeve hem with bias tape. DO do the topstitching and attach the sleeve tab. STOP before hemming the cuff.
3. Sew the lining, and finish the seams. (I just pinked mine.) Do not apply any bias tape, and topstitching is not needed.
4. Insert the sleeve into the lining, with right sides touching.
5. Line up the bottom edges of the lining and the sleeve, matching the seam lines, and pin.
6. Sew the lining to the sleeve, using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
7. Pull the lining down over the sleeve, and then shove the lining back up inside in the sleeve. The wrong sides of the fabrics should now be touching, and the lining should be inside the sleeve.
8. Turn the whole sleeve and lining unit inside out. Turn up the cuff your desired amount and press, making sure to smooth the lining back. (You should be pressing the seam allowance of the seam you just sewed up towards the sleeve cap.) Pin.
9. Sew the cuff. Do not catch the lining in this seam.
10. Set in the sleeve, ignoring the lining for now. I pushed my my lining down into my sleeve to keep it out of the way.
Tip – baste your sleeves first, it makes it easier to set them in.
11. Pull the lining up, and line up the edge of the lining with the edge of the sleeve. (You will have to ease in the lining, just like the sleeve, to get everything to fit.)
12. Baste (or pin) the lining to the seam allowance of the sleeve, matching seam lines and notches. I highly recommend basting!
13. Finish the armhole with bias tape. Make sure the bias tape fully encases the edge of the lining and the sleeve seam allowance.
NOTE: I started out with the bias tape I had used elsewhere on the coat. But it was too narrow to easily fold over the bulky seam allowance. (This is a bulky seam because the front and back flaps are also sewn into the armhole.) I switched to the ‘Wide Single Fold’ bias instead, and it worked better for me.
Once the bias tape is sewn in, remove the basting if it shows, and now the lining is fully attached!
14. If you turn the sleeve inside out and smooth the lining down the sleeve, there will be a little excess lining that can be pressed into into jump hem.
And that’s it! :)